Fougasse is one of the earliest leavened pastries. It can be sweet (sometimes called "sugar tart") or savory (with or without pork cracklings). Traditionally, the making of sugar fougasse in Aigues-Mortes was reserved for the Christmas period, as part of the thirteen desserts. Made with brioche dough, sugar, butter, and orange blossom water, it was prepared by the baker using ingredients brought by the customer. Nowadays, Aigues-Mortes fougasse is sold year-round.